The town: Jepara
The island: Java
The country: Indonesia
Monday, November 23, 2009
Durian, the spiny fruit
Jepara, Indonesia
The beach town of Jepara is a world reknown center of furniture manufacturers. The furniture which mostly made of teak wood are sold all over the world. Find the label that says: Made in Indonesia, and you can trace the products back to the town of Jepara where the furniture was originated, carved, polished, and packed for shipping.
But beyond the known furniture business, the town has been known locally as the town for durians, the spiny fruit the size of a coconut which comprises of 5 compartments inside, each bears a croissant-shape fruit with texture that resembles custard, and the aroma that is so distinctively "durian". Many of us are crazy about the fruit because of the smell, and so many hate it because of the smell. So, here is the key to positively introducing it to your friends (if you love the fruit yourself): The smell is fragrant, and the taste is so delicious. In saying so, you will be demonstrating that you truly love durians. Better yet, if you have supporters who eat durians with you at the time of introduction.
For those of you who still resist on trying, once you can get beyond the smell, you will find that the taste is truly delicious. Sometimes it tastes like custard, but sometimes it's so rich it tastes like cheese cake. I have been a durian fan since I was 5, and recently at 50 years of age, I am told that I am not a durian fan until I find RED DURIAN and experience the taste of it. So, my husband and I decided that it will be our next adventure. We have been researching possible islands in the archipelago where we might find the rare species.
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
The Beautiful Town of Tomohon
The Road to Tomohon
October 7th, 2009
Our local guide took us for a drive to a resort town about 1.5 hours up towards the hills from Manado. It was dusk, and what a breath taking view !From the top of the hill looking down the valley of treetops covered with layers of fogs, some are thin some are thick forming such a picturesque scene. I wish I were a painter. I don't always remember bringing my camera either. More often than not, I end up running into a "photographing opportunity". The road was so narrow and winding, and down below is deep valley I tried not to think about it. Once in a while, there is a fruit stand along the side of the road. One caught my attention. Mangosteens ! Fresh from the trees! I asked the driver to stop, and naturally we got honked on by the traffic behind us. I pulled some money out, gave it to the vendor, and grabbed a basket of mangosteens and hopped back in the car, all in approximately 2 long minutes. My husband shook his head. It's dinner time. He is hungry. We saw restaurants seemingly hanging right on the edges of the cliffs. I rolled the windows down and smelled the food. We are in a pretty resort town of Tomohon. On a higher elevation the climate changed from hot and humid to cool and breezy.
The Rijstaffel and "That Meat !"
We stopped at a restaurant my husband thought would be interesting to try. It was dark already. The time was almost 7pm. We walked around the restaurant and saw behind a glass compartment dozens of pots full of local dishes. I asked the restaurateur to explain every one of the dishes. All kinds of meat stews and curry dishes, vegetable soups, fish fillets and whole fish (heads 'n tails on) and the one before the last pot........ you don't want to know this one. It took me good 30 minutes to neutralize my mind, emotion, and appetite. Mitch was curious why I was acting strange. I finally told him what the restaurateur told me the meat was. It stirred my stomach once more time. We took a long table just for the two of us, knowing that Mitch would have a lot of dishes to try. It doesn't seem to bother him the fact that this restaurant serve "that" meat. I asked the waiters to bring us every dish they have except for "that" one. The driver was sitting outside away from us. I told the waiter that he is with us. Soon our table is covered with about 30 bowls of different dishes. I watched my husband looking like a King. He is so happy to see so many different dishes in front of him. There is not one dish that he didn't try. If he had two stomachs he would have asked them for some refills.
The delicious fish soup with the fresh garden debris !
I requested a local vegetable dish cooked just for me, not precooked. So, it took longer for my order to arrive. It was worth waiting. The big bowl of soup consists of fish with its bones and some rare vegetables, along with with some fresh root slices were wide leaves that you are not supposed to eat and yet they didn't remove them. The people of Manado and others in several south east asian countries want you to know that they prepare the dish fresh from scratch and that every spice is freshly picked from the garden, thus it is important to show them by leaving them in the serving dish, instead of discarding them prior to serving. In their opinion, the smell and the taste come before the look. The fish and vegetable soup was the most delicious soup I have ever tasted in my life.
The surprising invoice !
After all of the fiesta, my husband was ready to see a big number on the bill. Just as he put the credit card on the table the waiter said "tidak bisa pakai kartu, mister" (can't use credit card, sir). He began to feel nervous. He didn't know I brought plenty of cash usually on a road trip like this, but I asked "what's the total?". When the waiter showed us the total bill, my husband and I were looking at each other in disbelief ! It was Rp60,000 or about USD $6 for 3 people. I covered my opened mouth. This can't be right. I looked at the details. .... All you can eat per person Rp16,000 (USD $1.60), 3 people times $1.60, then plus the soup..... the rest of it I didn't even look and neither did I care. We couldn't help ourselves but laughing like we had just won a lottery. Nowhere in the world would we ever expect such a bargain, ever !
October 7th, 2009
Our local guide took us for a drive to a resort town about 1.5 hours up towards the hills from Manado. It was dusk, and what a breath taking view !From the top of the hill looking down the valley of treetops covered with layers of fogs, some are thin some are thick forming such a picturesque scene. I wish I were a painter. I don't always remember bringing my camera either. More often than not, I end up running into a "photographing opportunity". The road was so narrow and winding, and down below is deep valley I tried not to think about it. Once in a while, there is a fruit stand along the side of the road. One caught my attention. Mangosteens ! Fresh from the trees! I asked the driver to stop, and naturally we got honked on by the traffic behind us. I pulled some money out, gave it to the vendor, and grabbed a basket of mangosteens and hopped back in the car, all in approximately 2 long minutes. My husband shook his head. It's dinner time. He is hungry. We saw restaurants seemingly hanging right on the edges of the cliffs. I rolled the windows down and smelled the food. We are in a pretty resort town of Tomohon. On a higher elevation the climate changed from hot and humid to cool and breezy.
The Rijstaffel and "That Meat !"
We stopped at a restaurant my husband thought would be interesting to try. It was dark already. The time was almost 7pm. We walked around the restaurant and saw behind a glass compartment dozens of pots full of local dishes. I asked the restaurateur to explain every one of the dishes. All kinds of meat stews and curry dishes, vegetable soups, fish fillets and whole fish (heads 'n tails on) and the one before the last pot........ you don't want to know this one. It took me good 30 minutes to neutralize my mind, emotion, and appetite. Mitch was curious why I was acting strange. I finally told him what the restaurateur told me the meat was. It stirred my stomach once more time. We took a long table just for the two of us, knowing that Mitch would have a lot of dishes to try. It doesn't seem to bother him the fact that this restaurant serve "that" meat. I asked the waiters to bring us every dish they have except for "that" one. The driver was sitting outside away from us. I told the waiter that he is with us. Soon our table is covered with about 30 bowls of different dishes. I watched my husband looking like a King. He is so happy to see so many different dishes in front of him. There is not one dish that he didn't try. If he had two stomachs he would have asked them for some refills.
The delicious fish soup with the fresh garden debris !
I requested a local vegetable dish cooked just for me, not precooked. So, it took longer for my order to arrive. It was worth waiting. The big bowl of soup consists of fish with its bones and some rare vegetables, along with with some fresh root slices were wide leaves that you are not supposed to eat and yet they didn't remove them. The people of Manado and others in several south east asian countries want you to know that they prepare the dish fresh from scratch and that every spice is freshly picked from the garden, thus it is important to show them by leaving them in the serving dish, instead of discarding them prior to serving. In their opinion, the smell and the taste come before the look. The fish and vegetable soup was the most delicious soup I have ever tasted in my life.
The surprising invoice !
After all of the fiesta, my husband was ready to see a big number on the bill. Just as he put the credit card on the table the waiter said "tidak bisa pakai kartu, mister" (can't use credit card, sir). He began to feel nervous. He didn't know I brought plenty of cash usually on a road trip like this, but I asked "what's the total?". When the waiter showed us the total bill, my husband and I were looking at each other in disbelief ! It was Rp60,000 or about USD $6 for 3 people. I covered my opened mouth. This can't be right. I looked at the details. .... All you can eat per person Rp16,000 (USD $1.60), 3 people times $1.60, then plus the soup..... the rest of it I didn't even look and neither did I care. We couldn't help ourselves but laughing like we had just won a lottery. Nowhere in the world would we ever expect such a bargain, ever !
Epicurean Experience in Manado
Seafood along the beach of Manado.
October 5, 2009
We passed several big signs along the coast that said "seafood blah blah blah" or "blah blah blah seafood". Great! We are in the area where we want to be. I asked the driver to stop, paid him, then walked towards the biggest, noisiest, and brightest seafood restaurant by the sea. It was after 7pm. The place was busy. Apparently one of the most popular one. They asked us if we wanted to select our fish in the back of the restaurant. We followed the waiter to the area where you can choose your sea dinner. I picked a local whole fish, some local clams, and local vegetables. While waiting, we did our observation. The beach area by the restaurant was lit up. I saw some good size fish in the clear water below where we sat making me feel like I just want to scoop them with a net. There is no licensing required to fish in Indonesian water for residence.
The Salsa of Manado
One hour later, which was worth the wait, our table was covered with yummy local dishes. The sambal (the salsa of Indonesia) is quite different from that in Java. The chili peppers are finely chopped, rather than ground, with garlic and crispy tomatoes. I noticed the tomatoes are very small, like cherry tomatoes but crispy fresh and delicious. We enjoyed every shell fish on the table, savoured every unfamiliar weeds, and having a hot sambal fun race. Mitch won again. He had been a winner in a chili eating competition once, eating 10 hot thai peppers with only one spring roll to go with the peppers, finished in one minute.
Sing your heart out !
As we were stuffing ourselves, across the lawn on the other side there was a private party going on. From the microphone we could hear they were doing a Karaoke, a popular social entertainment in Asia. The peoples of Asia are not so shy when it comes to singing in public. It doesn't matter if they feel they have a good voice or not. They just want to sing their hearts out. Some of them have very good voice which was surprising that the recording studios have not grabbed them yet, but there are some whose voice sounded more like a loose guitar strings being pulled and sometimes like a tin roof getting whacked. But regardless, I always see the joy in their hearts through their eyes and body language when they sing.
Bubur Manado (the porridge of Manado).
October 6th, 2009
It's our first breakfast in Manado. The hotel served generous breakfast buffet. Anywhere in Indonesia, where a hotel is rated 4 star and above, there is always a grand international breakfast buffet with at least a local breakfast dish. I do miss having eggs and bacon sometimes. It's been at least 4 weeks since I had eggs and at least 6 months since I had bacon. But my eyes caught a clay pot of porridge that looked enticing. I saw the sign said "Bubur Manado". Bubur is the Indonesian word for porridge. To some of you who don't know what porridge is can put hot cereals or grits into the porridge category. Every bubur we had on the island of Java comprises of rice porridge with hot chicken broth and side garnish of chicken meat, chopped green onion and celery leaves, fried shallots, fried peanuts or cashews, shrimp chips, wedged limes, thick sweet soy sauce called kecap (pronounced: ketchup). This bubur of Manado looks yellow and creamy. I asked one of the attendants what it's made of for I couldn't detect it. I am usually good at guessing but it was easier to ask. It's pumpkin porridge ! An unexpected taste of bubur.
October 5, 2009
We passed several big signs along the coast that said "seafood blah blah blah" or "blah blah blah seafood". Great! We are in the area where we want to be. I asked the driver to stop, paid him, then walked towards the biggest, noisiest, and brightest seafood restaurant by the sea. It was after 7pm. The place was busy. Apparently one of the most popular one. They asked us if we wanted to select our fish in the back of the restaurant. We followed the waiter to the area where you can choose your sea dinner. I picked a local whole fish, some local clams, and local vegetables. While waiting, we did our observation. The beach area by the restaurant was lit up. I saw some good size fish in the clear water below where we sat making me feel like I just want to scoop them with a net. There is no licensing required to fish in Indonesian water for residence.
The Salsa of Manado
One hour later, which was worth the wait, our table was covered with yummy local dishes. The sambal (the salsa of Indonesia) is quite different from that in Java. The chili peppers are finely chopped, rather than ground, with garlic and crispy tomatoes. I noticed the tomatoes are very small, like cherry tomatoes but crispy fresh and delicious. We enjoyed every shell fish on the table, savoured every unfamiliar weeds, and having a hot sambal fun race. Mitch won again. He had been a winner in a chili eating competition once, eating 10 hot thai peppers with only one spring roll to go with the peppers, finished in one minute.
Sing your heart out !
As we were stuffing ourselves, across the lawn on the other side there was a private party going on. From the microphone we could hear they were doing a Karaoke, a popular social entertainment in Asia. The peoples of Asia are not so shy when it comes to singing in public. It doesn't matter if they feel they have a good voice or not. They just want to sing their hearts out. Some of them have very good voice which was surprising that the recording studios have not grabbed them yet, but there are some whose voice sounded more like a loose guitar strings being pulled and sometimes like a tin roof getting whacked. But regardless, I always see the joy in their hearts through their eyes and body language when they sing.
Bubur Manado (the porridge of Manado).
October 6th, 2009
It's our first breakfast in Manado. The hotel served generous breakfast buffet. Anywhere in Indonesia, where a hotel is rated 4 star and above, there is always a grand international breakfast buffet with at least a local breakfast dish. I do miss having eggs and bacon sometimes. It's been at least 4 weeks since I had eggs and at least 6 months since I had bacon. But my eyes caught a clay pot of porridge that looked enticing. I saw the sign said "Bubur Manado". Bubur is the Indonesian word for porridge. To some of you who don't know what porridge is can put hot cereals or grits into the porridge category. Every bubur we had on the island of Java comprises of rice porridge with hot chicken broth and side garnish of chicken meat, chopped green onion and celery leaves, fried shallots, fried peanuts or cashews, shrimp chips, wedged limes, thick sweet soy sauce called kecap (pronounced: ketchup). This bubur of Manado looks yellow and creamy. I asked one of the attendants what it's made of for I couldn't detect it. I am usually good at guessing but it was easier to ask. It's pumpkin porridge ! An unexpected taste of bubur.
Monday, November 16, 2009
The City of Manado and the Epicurean Experience
"To join our next adventure, please contact ika.gilbert@gmail.com"
The city of Manado - Sulawesi Island
October 5, 2009
Manado inherited much of the Dutch influence since their occupation in the early 1600's. (Indonesia became independent on August 17th, 1945). Unlike most part of Indonesia, the majority of the Manado population is Christian. Everyone I met has a western first name, such as Ben, Albert, Rudy, Henry, Hendrik, Melisa, Suzie. When I asked the local guide "When the Manado people started to adopt western names", he said "Since I can remember, all my great grandparents have western names"..... not the family names, of course.
The twenty cents public transportation
On our first day in the city, we did some exploration on foot as well as on the public transport which is a mini van, it costs about USD $.20 (twenty cents) per person each way, any destination within the city. It can seat up to 10 little people or 7 medium size people bending over a little bit. We were on the hunt for best seafood restaurant by the sea. After everyone got off the little mini van, the driver asked us where we wanted to get off. I told him the name of the restaurant by the sea. He said: "That's outside the city limit. I can take you there for Rp 20,000 (USD $2) more." I agreed. So now we are a charter. From the point where everyone got off to the restaurant it took 20 minutes.
The city of Manado - Sulawesi Island
October 5, 2009
Manado inherited much of the Dutch influence since their occupation in the early 1600's. (Indonesia became independent on August 17th, 1945). Unlike most part of Indonesia, the majority of the Manado population is Christian. Everyone I met has a western first name, such as Ben, Albert, Rudy, Henry, Hendrik, Melisa, Suzie. When I asked the local guide "When the Manado people started to adopt western names", he said "Since I can remember, all my great grandparents have western names"..... not the family names, of course.
The twenty cents public transportation
On our first day in the city, we did some exploration on foot as well as on the public transport which is a mini van, it costs about USD $.20 (twenty cents) per person each way, any destination within the city. It can seat up to 10 little people or 7 medium size people bending over a little bit. We were on the hunt for best seafood restaurant by the sea. After everyone got off the little mini van, the driver asked us where we wanted to get off. I told him the name of the restaurant by the sea. He said: "That's outside the city limit. I can take you there for Rp 20,000 (USD $2) more." I agreed. So now we are a charter. From the point where everyone got off to the restaurant it took 20 minutes.
From Jakarta to Manado
Four Hours Flight on Garuda was worth it !
October 5, 2009
We were at Jakarta airport for about 2 hours waiting for the 10:30 am flight to Manado. The flight would take 4 hours from Jakarta to Manado. If you look at the map of Indonesia and locate the island of Sulawesi, you will find Manado on the north eastern tip of the longest arm of the island. Manado is the nearest airport to the Bunaken islands, a small cluster of islands famous for the best diving site in the world. That's our destination next.
We arrived around 2:30 in the afternoon, negotiated a taxi and headed to the hotel I had contacted from the US. I called the hotel from the taxi to make sure that the Internet is ready for use in our room when we arrive. Mitch couldn't wait to set up his "office on vacation". If you can telecommute for your job, there is one big advantage with vacationing in Indonesia, with the 15-hour time difference from the West Coast of the United States, you can play during the day, and work at night. But if you have a spouse trying to go to sleep and you are constantly on conference calls, then you may have to get your own room !
"To join our next adventure, please contact ika.gilbert@gmail.com"
October 5, 2009
We were at Jakarta airport for about 2 hours waiting for the 10:30 am flight to Manado. The flight would take 4 hours from Jakarta to Manado. If you look at the map of Indonesia and locate the island of Sulawesi, you will find Manado on the north eastern tip of the longest arm of the island. Manado is the nearest airport to the Bunaken islands, a small cluster of islands famous for the best diving site in the world. That's our destination next.
We arrived around 2:30 in the afternoon, negotiated a taxi and headed to the hotel I had contacted from the US. I called the hotel from the taxi to make sure that the Internet is ready for use in our room when we arrive. Mitch couldn't wait to set up his "office on vacation". If you can telecommute for your job, there is one big advantage with vacationing in Indonesia, with the 15-hour time difference from the West Coast of the United States, you can play during the day, and work at night. But if you have a spouse trying to go to sleep and you are constantly on conference calls, then you may have to get your own room !
"To join our next adventure, please contact ika.gilbert@gmail.com"
From Magelang to Jakarta
From Magelang to Jakarta.
October 5, 2009
Monday morning, 4am. Most of the wedding travellers had gone back to Semarang (2 hours drive north of Magelang). Ita and Greg left right after the wedding yesterday. Greg had to go back to Jakarta and Ita to Adelaide, South Australia. Four of us are still at the Royal Village, trying to pack up this morning for a 1.5 hours drive to Yogya (Yogyakarta) airport. We will all be split up in Jakarta airport (one hour flight from Yogyakarta to Jakarta). I took a few minutes enjoying the nature surrounding our villa, since I probably won't be back here for a while. It was still dark, but I saw the sky started to lighten. A nice fresh smell. The fresh morning, and the mountain dew. The crickets and other nocturnals had stopped "partying". I will miss the Royal Village and the Royal treatment. We left the village around 5 am in the white van. The drive is very pleasant in the morning when there is no traffic and most people are still inside their homes. It was an easy drive to Yogya airport, and an easy flight to Jakarta airport. In Indonesia, no matter how short a flight is, snacks and non alcoholic beverages are always served. Any flight longer than 1.5 hours, a meal is usually served.
"To join our next adventure, please contact ika.gilbert@gmail.com"
October 5, 2009
Monday morning, 4am. Most of the wedding travellers had gone back to Semarang (2 hours drive north of Magelang). Ita and Greg left right after the wedding yesterday. Greg had to go back to Jakarta and Ita to Adelaide, South Australia. Four of us are still at the Royal Village, trying to pack up this morning for a 1.5 hours drive to Yogya (Yogyakarta) airport. We will all be split up in Jakarta airport (one hour flight from Yogyakarta to Jakarta). I took a few minutes enjoying the nature surrounding our villa, since I probably won't be back here for a while. It was still dark, but I saw the sky started to lighten. A nice fresh smell. The fresh morning, and the mountain dew. The crickets and other nocturnals had stopped "partying". I will miss the Royal Village and the Royal treatment. We left the village around 5 am in the white van. The drive is very pleasant in the morning when there is no traffic and most people are still inside their homes. It was an easy drive to Yogya airport, and an easy flight to Jakarta airport. In Indonesia, no matter how short a flight is, snacks and non alcoholic beverages are always served. Any flight longer than 1.5 hours, a meal is usually served.
"To join our next adventure, please contact ika.gilbert@gmail.com"
Attending a Javanese Wedding
"To join our next adventure, please contact ika.gilbert@gmail.com"
Getting ready to the Javanese Wedding Reception
October 4, 2009
Sunday morning, 6 am. Our villa was running out of hot water. I was debating on whether I should go ahead and took a cold shower or called the maintenance engineer to fix the problem. Mitch suggested that we should have the problem fixed. The wedding we are supposed to attend would start at 10 am and it was almost 8:30 when we finally got our hot water back. I thought I could get ready in half an hour and be at the wedding at 10. Marini came to our villa at 9:00 am and looked surprised at how unready we were. I told her that in Java, they observe "jam karet" or rubber time. So, the wedding may not start till after 11am, I said. It was 10:00am when I started feeling nervous about the time as I was still busy trying to match my accessories. At this very moment, my sister Ita rushed in asking me to help her with her ripped skirt. My mind was already at the wedding party, thinking all members of my family and the bride's family are already there at the wedding hall and here we are still busy trying to figure out how we are going to look. Ita handed me a needle and a piece of thread. I couldn't believe what I was facing, "What am I supposed to do with that?", I asked. She said "Could you please help me thread this and sew up my ripped skirt?". I was shaking my head, trying not to laugh. "Like I have plenty of time?", I said. After she saw that I was so behind on time she decided not to disturb me.
At the Wedding Hall
11:00am
We arrived at the Ahmad Yani Hall in Magelang. The driver pulled the white van right in front of the door step where we were greeted by several people in traditional javanese kebaya. There were six of us jumping out of the van. We walked past through the beautiful "human fence" that formed two lines each on either side of the long red carpet. I looked up on the upper platform where the bride and groom were seated on their "throne". They were already on the up standing position, sandwiched by the parents, one pair on either side, and people were already forming a line going up stage ready to shake the bride's and groom's hands with "Congrats!" and have a picture taken with the "celebratees" (celebrateds). Down below the bridal's platform, the official photographers were busy with their cameras and videos trying to capture the moments. At this point, I realized that the traditional "patemon" ceremony (the meeting moment in a javanese wedding ceremony) was already over. How could I have been so presumptious about the "rubber time" fashion ? But who isn't, for we all know it's always "rubber time" in Asia ? Everyone seemed to have agreed with me on that presumption. Ita explained only much later, that since they only rented the hall for 3 hours, there is no time to waste. For a change, the rubber time doesn't apply. How I wish I knew. I spotted my family members who were all in blue kebayas (the women) and joined the crowd in the adjoining hall where the food buffet was set up. My husband Mitch, Greg, Rod, and Marini soon split up in the dining crowd while Ita and I were catching up with family members. I walked up to see my handsome nephew, Angga the Groom and kissed his beautiful wife, Hesti Sari Dewi Kusuma Wulandari (that's her name, yet to add her husband's name). My husband joined me and we posed for a photograph with the bride and groom.
Meanwhile, the music and the singers were entertaining us. Then I saw my uncle Marcus took the microphone and started singing. He was giving me a signal to join him singing, but I gathered my family members to dance, instead. Marini in her Prada shoes was being a good sport, she joined the dancing crowd in those high heels..... We love Marini. I don't know who started it, but she is now known in our family as Tante (Auntie) Marini.
Friday, November 13, 2009
Midnight Massage at the Royal Village
"To join our next adventure, please contact ika.gilbert@gmail.com"
Midnight Massage at the Royal Village.October 3, 2009
The security guard at the Royal Village courteously opened the gate for our car to go through. It was close to 10pm. I had left my husband alone in the villa for he needed some rest while I joined my family in the 3-day wedding celebrations at the bride's parents'. Everyone was still at the party when I asked the driver to take me back to the villa. "Tukang pijitnya sudah siap, Ibu," he said. (The masseuse is ready, Maam). I almost forgot that I requested a massage therapy in our villa. It's after 10pm. That means she won't be done till after midnight if the two of us are getting a massage. But they are so used to working at anytime for extra salary. I woke my husband up.
"Do you want to be the first?", I asked.
"First for what?", he said, trying to wake up.
"We are getting a massage tonight".
"What time is it?", he asked.
"It's 10:30".
"Oh my God. It's so late".
"Don't worry. She is ready", I said.
"Why don't you go first"
The masseuse is a tall Javanese woman, about 30 years of age, very strong and rather athletic from working so hard. She and the Butler put some sheets on the cabana to be ready for a massage session. What a perfect night for this. The cool breeze, the smell of an island night, the stars studded sky, the sound of crickets and frogs from the distant rice fields.......
My Husband is lying right next to me.
In the spacious cabana, he was patiently lying right next to me as I was enjoying the fabulous massage. Somewhere during the mid session, I heard him "kerperfling" (a type of snoring..... that soft sound of two lips being pushed out by a breath of air). I dozed in and out checking the time with the masseuse every once in a while. The sound of nocturnals made me think that those creatures were having a party. I told my husband it's almost time for his turn. The masseuse doesn't speak English at all, but somehow she was sensing (or guessing) that my husband's turn is coming soon. She said: "I just want to let you know that I won't have time to give your husband a massage." It shocked me that I jumped out of the sheets. This massage therapy request was for him, not for me. I could care less if I don't get a massage. I should have let him first instead of me. Confused, I asked her "Didn't the driver tell you that it's for 2 people?".
She said: "I have another appointment after you."
"Yes. That appointment is still one of us," I said.
"No. It's at another place," she said.
At this time, I had translated the communication for my husband. As you can imagine how disappointed he was. But he simply said: Oh..... Adventurika ! Adventurika!
Midnight Massage at the Royal Village.October 3, 2009
The security guard at the Royal Village courteously opened the gate for our car to go through. It was close to 10pm. I had left my husband alone in the villa for he needed some rest while I joined my family in the 3-day wedding celebrations at the bride's parents'. Everyone was still at the party when I asked the driver to take me back to the villa. "Tukang pijitnya sudah siap, Ibu," he said. (The masseuse is ready, Maam). I almost forgot that I requested a massage therapy in our villa. It's after 10pm. That means she won't be done till after midnight if the two of us are getting a massage. But they are so used to working at anytime for extra salary. I woke my husband up.
"Do you want to be the first?", I asked.
"First for what?", he said, trying to wake up.
"We are getting a massage tonight".
"What time is it?", he asked.
"It's 10:30".
"Oh my God. It's so late".
"Don't worry. She is ready", I said.
"Why don't you go first"
The masseuse is a tall Javanese woman, about 30 years of age, very strong and rather athletic from working so hard. She and the Butler put some sheets on the cabana to be ready for a massage session. What a perfect night for this. The cool breeze, the smell of an island night, the stars studded sky, the sound of crickets and frogs from the distant rice fields.......
My Husband is lying right next to me.
In the spacious cabana, he was patiently lying right next to me as I was enjoying the fabulous massage. Somewhere during the mid session, I heard him "kerperfling" (a type of snoring..... that soft sound of two lips being pushed out by a breath of air). I dozed in and out checking the time with the masseuse every once in a while. The sound of nocturnals made me think that those creatures were having a party. I told my husband it's almost time for his turn. The masseuse doesn't speak English at all, but somehow she was sensing (or guessing) that my husband's turn is coming soon. She said: "I just want to let you know that I won't have time to give your husband a massage." It shocked me that I jumped out of the sheets. This massage therapy request was for him, not for me. I could care less if I don't get a massage. I should have let him first instead of me. Confused, I asked her "Didn't the driver tell you that it's for 2 people?".
She said: "I have another appointment after you."
"Yes. That appointment is still one of us," I said.
"No. It's at another place," she said.
At this time, I had translated the communication for my husband. As you can imagine how disappointed he was. But he simply said: Oh..... Adventurika ! Adventurika!
Monday, November 9, 2009
The Bride and Groom call me Mama
"To join our next adventure, please contact ika.gilbert@gmail.com"
At the Bride's Parents' Home
October 3, 2009
Most of the bride's family members stay busy in the house, directing party helpers to keep the food and drink flowing, the photographers working with the event coordinator to make sure that they capture the moments. The bride had been "quarantined" in her room as a tradition until such time to appear according to the ceremonial guide. In the old days, she would be quarantined for 30 to 40 days prior to the wedding depending on the family tradition. I managed to slip in, and the bride welcome me with an emotion of gratitude and embraced me as her "adoptive" mama. Because her future husband (my nephew) calls me mama she follows suit. There couldn't be a better moment to establish this relationship than this very important occasion. With tears in her eyes, she said "Terimakasih, Mama".... I kissed both her cheeks and congratulated her with some words of advice, as a customary. In Javanese custom, you are not revered, as an elder, if you can't give words of advice to the younger ones, especially if they place you as a parent. Though I don't have any children of my own, I am blessed with a few "adoptive children" in Indonesia who call me mama and treat me as their "other" mom. From now on, Hesti Sari Dewi Kusuma Wulandari (the bride's given name) is treated as my own daughter. Her name is long, but we call her Wulan, short for Wulandari. I had encouraged her to start using Wulan Aditya Rangga after the wedding is over. So, we'll see.
The Jasmine and the Ceremonies
The muslim bride was covered almost from head to toe, showing only the face, hands, and feet, ready for the shower ceremony. On her shoulders are finely crocheted strands of jasmine buds with some drop-down strings of jasmines that start to blossom filling the air around her with soft natural fragrance.
The ceremony began with the bride asking her parents for their blessing by kneeling in front of them with her face touching the knees of the parent and kissing their hands while the parents are both sitting on the edge of the bed. This "sungkeman" is done in the privacy of the bride's room. Then the parents slowly, following the rythm of soft gamelan music, walk the bride out onto the "bathing throne". The bride is now sitting in the public view, as witnessed by all members of both families. Sitting in a row of 7 chairs next to her are her elders (those who are deemed to be qualified for giving her a bath). Laid on the ground were 7 clay urns called "kendi" containing pure water, which have come from 7 different natural water resources from 7 different directions to symbolize the hope of broad future for the married couple. It important that the water has not been processed in anyway so as to remain pure and natural, to symbolize the purity of the bride. Mixed in the pure water are three popular flowers which are commonly used for traditional ceremonies: Cempaka (ylang ylang), Kenanga (another type of ylang ylang), and Melati (jasmine). The Javanese people chose these flowers for the color white which symbolize purity and the nice fragrance for the occasion.
So many symbols and so many meanings, so many of which have been lost in the modern society that the younger generations in our family don't even know anymore what object in the ceremony symbolizes what. My sister, Iliek, who is the mother of the bride, naturally became the target for all of those questions that afternoon. She was trying to explain as she was recalling her memory, and once in a while we asked her jokingly.... "Are you sure?"... and everyone "tried not to laugh". The ceremony, though done rather formally and seriously, we laughed once in a while for we couldn't bear the fun in our hearts.
The Paparazi
We were all trying to sit in the front row so we can better capture the moments. But the hired photographer and video producer kept dominating the arena and guiltlessly blocked our view acting as though they were the one in charge of this whole ceremony. The assistant was even ignorant of our request to stand aside so as to not block our view, but he insisted on sitting right in front of us that I had to say something to him. Sure enough, I got more attention than necessary (I think). He reluctantly moved away, but later I could feel a bit of a tension between he and I throughout the events till the next day. But I was happy that
everyone was happy. Our friend Rod, the photography from Pasadena, was busy with his camera. I captured a picture of him taking picture of me. Then later I saw a picture of him taking a picture of another photographer who was taking a picture of his. I wonder who was taking the picture of them in action? There were so many cameras in action during this ceremony.
Bridal Shower on the island of Java
"To join our next adventure, please contact ika.gilbert@gmail.com"
The Town of Muntilan
October 3rd, 2009
It was Saturday morning around 11 am. The air was a bit heavier than normal. I looked up in the sky, there were some clouds. I could feel and smell the humidity of the tropical island. My skin loved it. I said to my husband: I never need body lotion after shower whenever I am here, and he'd jokingly say "I never either". I'd try not to laugh. The driver has been patiently waiting for us. Six of us hopped in the white air-conditioned van and headed to the home of the bride's parents in the town of Muntilan, which is right next to Magelang. But because of the road condition it took us over an hour to get to the house. The length of time was easily passed with the panoramic view of the rice fields, tropical fruit trees, and the villages. The journey to the house was very special. How often do you get to drive through rice paddies on the way to a party? So scenic, so serene....... and then here we are, arriving at the beginning of a street in a village. The driver stopped the car and rolled his window down to talk to a man who was walking leisurely, "Mas, ingkang kagungan kerso dalem ingkang pundi nggih?" (Brother, which house is having a bridal celebration?"), the driver asked the man. The man pointed at a direction further up. Driving slowly about 200 meters up, the driver was looking around for a sign. He was about to ask another passer by when I spotted a traditional street decoration that symbolizes "a party is going on". On Java and Bali, the people use young coconut leaves to make decorations for traditional celebrations.
Janur Mlengkung
On the island of Java, when you see "janur mlengkung" it is generally an indication that there is a wedding celebration in the village. The decoration is put on a tall whole bamboo, wrapped with artsy craftsy coconut leaves (janur) with the tip weighted down with a lantern-like woven basket made of young coconut leaves. It is the lantern basket on the tip of the bamboo that shapes the arch, hence the name janur mlengkung (the arching janur). The first time I paid attention to the term janur mlengkung was when I was about 12 years old. My neighbor's son, Giyono, who was a few years older than I, had an eye on a girl of his age. Giyono was like a big brother to me. He would ask me to deliver a note to her, etc. I said to him one day that she already had "someone". Giyono's response was: "It's okay, there's no janur mlengkung yet". That means she is not married yet, though she may already be in a relationship. We arrived at the party house, and all members of my family (the groom's side) are dressed in red kebayas except for us who have been traveling.
Thursday, November 5, 2009
The Royal Village and Puri Asri, Magelang, Central Java
"To join our next adventure, please contact ika.gilbert@gmail.com"
October 3, 2009
The Traffic Culture on Java Island
Saturday morning. We left Yogyakarta for Magelang, the home town of Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in Southeast Asia. People from all over the world come here to visit the marvelous structure. But that's NOT what we have come here for. Our group split into 3 cars. Ita and Greg left last night. We took two taxis this morning. Both taxi drivers were skillfully weaving through the traffic which was dense with motorcycles, cars, goats, trucks, buses, horse carriages, and everything else in between, including .... pedestrians crossing right in front of you. There were times when I had to close my eyes. I felt my heart stop beating at times. Drivers may seem crazy when they are in action. It's amazing how you don't see very many cars with dents. Have you heard of the "traffic culture"? If you haven't, I haven't either till this moment. I would describe it as the understanding and expectation between you and other drivers in action. To acquire the traffic culture, first you must understand the general traffic rules, which could vary from one country to another. Secondly, you must actually drive and do it enough times to develop a common sense and a local sense both. Then you should practice weaving through the dense traffic carefully without hitting any other vehicles, animals or pedestrians, depending on which city you are in. In Jakarta you probably wont' see any dogs crossing, but Jakarta traffic is another story, another time. Then start increasing your speed once you gain some weaving skills. Finally... get ready for the race!.
Traffic Weaving Skills
Growing up on Java, I should have been accustomed to this traffic madness. But after being away for so long, and living in the US where traffic is so orderly, I need to be reacquainted every time I return to the island. No drivers in America can beat the "weaving" skills of drivers in Asia. I remember our guest, Karen, from Taiwan had once made a "thumbs up" remark when Mitch had to beat the traffic in Sacramento "Wowww ! I think Uncle Mitch can drive in Asia!", she said. The traffic in the city can be a real madness but it isn't so bad once you get out of the traffic. The ride became more comfortable, smoother, and we could enjoy the beautiful mountains and the rice paddies.
The Royal Village
The travel time was only 1.5 hours to Hotel Puri Asri, Magelang. What a nice place this is. It's one of the best resorts in Central Java. Puri Asri consists of 2 properties, the multi-unit buildings which is called Hotel Puri Asri itself and the Royal Village which encompasses several cottages. These cottages were built away from the main compound, scattered on the hills on the end of the property surrounded with natural beauty. On the east side there is a rocky river down below, cascading around rice paddies. During the rainy season, the river has enough water for rafting trips. The trips start right here at Puri Asri. If you like the smell and the feel of tropical rains, especially if river rafting is part of your plan, I recommend coming here during the months of November through March. Make sure to call the hotel for rafting trip updates before your departure. Our royal villa is a privately gated area consists of a large cottage, a private swimming pool, a good sized hut, complete with mattress and curtain, garden table and chairs with umbrella, and a ..... 24-hour butler.
The Cottage, Massage Hut, Private Pool, The Breathtaking View
The cottage has a good sized bedroom with a King size bed, a living room, a huge bathing area with an oversize jet tub, a separate shower and a spacious toilet room, a vanity and a stocked bar. There are three exit doors: to the pool, to the hut, and to the gate where our driver drops us off. The view is just amazing. I can just sit here in the garden or lie down in the hut looking at the rocky river and far at the mountain blue. Look as far as you can see, and you'll spot a tiny looking mosque with red tile roof tucked in the greenery at the foot of the mountain. As I was doing my observation, the assigned butlers were at standby outside our cottage. Quickly I made up a list of things to do for them: laundry to be done and delivered in one hour for the afternoon event; request two massage therapists to come to our villa for tonight; and an air-conditioned van to drive us around. It was a hectic arrival and we only had 1.5 hours to get ready to attend a traditional javanese bridal ceremony. I still had to coordinate with the group which took four separate cottages. Marini took a cottage adjacent to ours, Rod took the next one, and Ita and Greg took one a distance away. I am always impressed at these 5 star resorts in Indonesia. They really make your money worth spent. The butlers and their quick service, the politeness of the people,.... and above all "there is nothing that they won't do for you if they can do it". Staying in the Royal Village is worth every rupiah we spent there.
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